Manitoulin Island, ON
I’m writing this post onboard the Chi-Cheemaun on our return trip from Manitoulin Island. Our outward journey was 2 days ago, and we have certainly covered a lot of the largest freshwater island in the world.
Day 1 The Chi-Cheemaun “big canoe” ferry is dog accommodating, but be prepared to sit out on the deck, as most of the interior is not dog-friendly. I was told essentially all carpeted areas are off-limits. This means you are able to pass through the “Boatique” gift shop but not browse; the shelves were pretty empty anyhow! There were lots of doggy friends on board with Rita, so we had plenty of company and luckily the weather stayed nice both ways.
Upon our late afternoon arrival, we headed straight to Timberlane Rustic Lodges, our accommodation for two nights, sitting on the edge of Lake Manitou. We were in the 1-bed Maple lodge. Although basic, it was equipped with a fridge and BBQ, and there were kayaks and boats available for hire. The owner Mark was extremely friendly and offered tips on the best spots on the island.
That night, we visited Manitoulin Eco-Park, which is home to the first commercial Dark Sky Preserve in Canada. We had signed up to an Astronomy Night Hike, running from 9-11pm, where we would learn about the life of the forest, as well as the stars that could be seen. In fact, two days prior, the group had observed the Northern Lights! Luck was not on our side however; it had been a cloudy afternoon and just as we were about to start, the rain began to pour down. Hence the hike was cancelled, with a full refund. This was a unique dog-friendly activity so I would certainly go again, but unfortunately it wasn’t running again during our visit.
Day 2 The weather was not favourable today either, as the rain forced the Annual Cultural Festival indoors. The Pow Wow is the traditional celebration of the First Nations, of which Manitoulin is still a home to many. We attended the Wikwemikong Festival, and although the outdoor version was dog-friendly (so we heard), Rita was not allowed into the arena. Luckily it was a cool day so she could stay in the car. I watched the Grand Entry, inter-tribals and Smoke Dances. It was great to watch, although the setting made it feel like a glorified school production, and the atmosphere was dulled by lack of vendors and stalls. Hopefully we get to see the full performance another time!
The day dried up, and so we headed north towards Little Current. On the way, we stopped at McLeans Mountain Lookout and Ten Mile Trading Post, a great native gift shop. We reached dog-friendly Manitoulin Brewing Co. to find it was closed for the civic holiday! However, the taproom was open to grab a beer and sit outside. Normally they also have a food truck and an outside bar created out of a silo. Rita enjoyed her short visit.
Next we headed down to the marina and walked along the recreational trail towards the heritage-designated Little Current Swing Bridge connecting Manitoulin to the mainland. We discovered that the bridge holds the only set of traffic lights on the island!
On the drive back to the lodge, we hit up the Cup and Saucer Trail, taking the 5km red loop to the lookouts and back. The trail was quite steep and rocky with many roots, so wear your hiking boots! It gets its name due to shape of the limestone formation, and there were even mini saucer stacks along the trail. Although a popular trail, it wasn’t too busy on the evening we visited. The views over the island are the best you’ll find – just don’t stand too close to the edge!
Day 3 On our final day, we explored Central Manitoulin. We began with a coffee at Maggie’s Café. They are take-out only, but have some outdoor seating. It was the strangest experience; I had to ring an old-fashioned bell for attention, which was followed by the sound of dogs barking and children screaming, and then my order being taken through the screen door. The coffee wasn’t worth all the fuss!
From here, we drove to Bridal Veil Falls, a waterfall which is exactly as you’d imagine it! Fine and pretty. It’s also a popular swimming hole, so Rita joined in (I did not). We took the short hiking trail along the river – part of this was closed due to reconstruction of the bridges. It was a peaceful trail to let Rita off for a run. The car park is small but the turnaround is quick.
From here, it’s a short drive to Gore Bay, another small town on the island. We ventured into the Flower Hutch, where Rita was greeted with cod liver treats. I purchased some of the infamous Hawberry Jelly of Manitoulin. Another (non-dog-friendly but easy to tie up outside) café and contemporary gift shop is Loco Beanz. For lunch, we headed to Split Rail Brewing Co., which has a dog friendly patio. I got a hummus plate and hawberry cherry craft soda. The atmosphere was friendly and bustling. Next door is an artisan chocolate shop, Finnia, which I also popped into (Rita stayed outside). A few minutes up the road is Janet Head Lighthouse, still being used as a private summer home today! The family make the grounds accessible to the public to enjoy the traditional lighthouse from the 1870s, named after Lieutenant Wolsey Bayfield’s daughter, and some days even welcome visitors into their home for a tour.
Our next stop was Providence Bay. Dogs are prohibited on the beach, but it’s worth visiting for the boardwalk. Another leave-your-dog outside café/gift shop is Mutchmor, with plenty of unique knick-knacks. Thank you to Stephanie, a fellow dog-mom who was on our night hike, and who we bumped into again today, for the recommendation!
Our final stop was South Baymouth, from where we would take the ferry back to Tobermory. There are a few gift shops but they aren’t up to much! However, the Pierside boasts Manitoulin’s largest pet-friendly patio, and so we had to visit. With the lack of healthy options on the menu, I got fries and chocolate milk. Rita was content to sleep after her long day!
