Rathlin Island

Today we ventured off the main island of Ireland for the first time in Rita’s life! Dogs are welcome on the island but must be kept on a lead at all times.

We took the 10am Spirit of Rathlin ferry from Ballycastle. This is the slower one at 40 minutes; we took the 4pm 20 minute Rathlin Express for our return journey. You can check the ferry timetable and booking information on their website. It cost us £12 return per adult. Dogs are welcome but may be asked to sit out on deck.

First on our agenda was a walking tour. We used Rathlin Walking Tours, but were also in touch with Nine Glens Walking Tours who were very helpful. We had a 90-minute walk, £20 for two people. Our guide Wendy met us as we got off the ferry and started our walk along the “main road”, before joining the Roonivoolin Trail. Wendy gave us a bit of history about the island and showed us the ruins of the Kelp House, a limestone storehouse used during the period of kelp trading of the island in the 18th century,

“It’s a public pathway but the sheep don’t know that”

The Roonivoolin Trail took us off the road, through narrow gates and over stiles, across uneven terrain. We walked through fields of sheep with their lambs. Wendy advised us to move slowly and be prepared for rams charging at us. So we understandably had to maintain heightened awareness and I kept Rita on a short lead. She then left us at a cliff edge with marvellous views, so we could carry on the trail. In retrospect, we perhaps should have clarified we wanted a round trip ending at the harbour. Learn from our mistakes. We had the option of completing the trail (to see the Rue lighthouse and some ruins) and potentially rushing to complete our next activity, or go back the way we came, through the unpredictable sheep. Well, we decided to continue, as we are both fast walkers, however we shortly encountered a ram and lambs on the incorrect side of the fence, and to enable us to give them a wide berth, we would have had to walk too close for comfort to the cliff edge, so we decided to turn back and navigate the entire field of volatile sheep instead.

We finally made it back to the harbour and sat at a picnic bench for a bite to eat. We had brought food with us; there is a small convenience store but I wouldn’t rely on it for anything other than bare basics. There are a couple of souvenir stores with a wide range of local crafts and T-shirt etc so you shouldn’t be stuck buying a gift for those left on the mainland.

Next was the RSPB seabird centre. There are two bus companies which operate alternately. I had heard mixed reviews about allowing dogs on board, so I got in contact with them both beforehand. Numbers available here. Derick was operating that day and said he would let Rita on, subject to none of the other passengers having any objections. We weren’t sure exactly when the next bus would be leaving, but as we were eating our lunch, it happened to pull up nearby. I went and checked with Derrick about when he would next leave, and he told us to meet him over at the pier, where he would wait for 10 minutes or until the bus was full, and then set off. We followed his instructions, but he did not, and went directly to the seabird centre without us! As we had his number, we gave him a ring and he did apologise, but said he would not be able to get us there and back before our ferry was due to leave. We decided to have a look at the shops and then head to McCuaig’s bar for a well-deserved glass of wine each! However, as we were walking over, Derick arrived back, and we ended up getting to the seabird centre. We only had 10 minutes to take a quick look at the masses of puffins and then return, but the journey itself was a nice way to see more of the island. The RSPB seabird centre does not allow dogs inside; you can either tie them up outside, or if you have human company, take it turn about. I don’t think you’d spend more than 20 minutes in the centre. To be honest, we got to see the puffins without entering the centre. Perhaps inside we would have been able to learn more about them and make use of the binoculars, but we were happy to have seen them. I would advise to do the Seabird Centre first; the buses usually wait for the passengers to disembark the ferry, that way you can get straight on, enjoy the puffins, and tailor the rest of your day at your convenience.

On our return to Belfast, Rita and I stopped at The Dark Hedges. This is of course another dog-friendly photo opportunity! We could park at the end of the Bregagh Road itself.

Toilets: there are clean-enough public toilets and showers on the island, with sanitiser, soap, hot water, paper towels.

Food/drink: McCuaig’s bar (outdoor seating area allowing dogs), Watershed Café (closed for 2021, believed to be dog friendly)

Shops: Breakwater Studio (Rita was allowed to sit in their front yard), Island Treasures Souvenirs

Other activities we didn’t do: cycle hire (if your dog can run alongside whilst on lead), glamping pods (one pod is set aside for pets, limit of one pet and must book beforehand), wildlife photography workshops with Tom McDonnell.

Key takeaways:

· Clarify walking route with guide before you go

· Seabird centre first, get on bus directly after disembarking ferry

· Bring food and drink

For further information, visit Rathlin Community.

Glenariff and Raceview Mill